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2008 chevy cobalt flex pipe recall12/27/2023 3 are accessable from the engine bay, other 2 under the vehicle. Sorry about the Cell pix but that's what I had onhand.ġ) Hose down the 5 nuts with penetrant to make them easier to get off. so I may or may not regret my decision later to remove it. most likely because they used these very inflexible (but strong) flex pipe sections. It may have broke in eventually and been fine, but I heard of the aftermarket downpipes requiring solid engine mounts or suffer exhaust failures. I purchased one with and inner "interlock" section, then proceded to remove the interlock because it was very inflexible. This would cause a sort of "Bunghole effect" of the braid, choaking off the exhaust. Ones with inner braiding is probably not a good idea because of how our engines squeese the flex pipe. The flex section of the stock LSJ pipe appears to be 2.5" while the rest of the pipe is 2.75". Replacement gaskets (3-bolt manifold to DP and 2-bolt DP to catback) (Anything else? IDK I'm not done with the project yet) Coarse Sand paper or wire wheel for rust removal Breaker bar (I have a 18"x3/8 for my 3/8 sockets) ![]() Mig/gassless welder w/ necessary accessories (gloves, mask etc.) If your's does not yet, you may need to keep driving it until it begins to. ![]() I could do this because i could hear the leak a bit at cold idle. Stick one end in your ear and poke the other around the flex pipe, listening for the hiss/tick. To do this I use a sort of homebrew stethoscope: 4-5ft of flexible tubing (1/4" id should be fine). Mine finally started to go out, so I figured I'd have a go at repairing it.įirst thing to do is be sure the flex pipe is the actual problem, and not some other issue like a gasket leak. I have seen a ton of folks talk of the evil buzzing or ticking hiss from their engine bay.
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